Free class: Demystifying sewing patterns with Rachel Pinheiro!

Many of you know Rachel Pinheiro from her gorgeous blog, House of Pinheiro. She’s an incredibly prolific dressmaker, whipping up garment after garment, each in her own unique style. She’s frequently called upon to test pre-released patterns and is always in the know about the next big names in the indie pattern world. So when she asked if we could do a special class to help students come to grips with reading sewing patterns, I said of course!

demystifying sewing patterns with rachel pinheiro

Are you wishing to sew garments but don’t know where to start or confused when reading a sewing pattern? This talk is for you. We will navigate and decipher a wide range of different sewing pattern covers from vintage, main stream and indie designers. Learn more about pattern symbols and ease and talk tips to get you started. But this event isn’t limited to beginners; even home dressmakers with a few successful garments under their belt can benefit.

This event will take place in our West Hampstead shop on Tuesday, 21 October, at 7pm. 

demystifying sewing patterns with rachel pinheiro

This event is free, but to keep tabs on numbers we’re asking that you reserve your place with a £5 deposit that you’ll get back as a store credit to spend on anything in the shop (including classes). You can sign up here or pop into our West Hampstead shop to put your name on the list.

demystifying sewing patterns with rachel pinheiro

For this talk, bring your notebook. If there is a pattern you want help with, please bring it along. There will be plenty of time to ask questions. Plus we’ll have wine and nibbles on hand to keep things lively!

Comments { 0 }
Wildwood by Elizabeth Olwen now in stock

Wildwood by Elizabeth Olwen now in stock

Elizabeth Olwen’s second collection with Cloud9 Fabrics, Wildwood, has just arrived in the shop! Set against the modern but classic colour palette of cool navies, warm reds and warm greys, Wildwood is inspired by long walks through the varying fields and forests of the British landscape. Encompassing rare flowers found on forest floors and interesting crunchy leaves, Wildwood exudes a ‘wild at heart” and romantic spirit.
Wildwood by Elizabeth Olwen

We’ve had so many eager requests for this collection and after I listed made it available to buy last night we took a couple of huge late night orders. You guys are keen! So if you haven’t already placed your order, shop the complete Wildwood collection, pick up a Wildwood fat quarter bundle or pick and choose your favourites to build your own Wildwood bundle!

Comments { 0 }

Doe by Carolyn Friedlander now in stock (here and only here!)

We are beside ourselves with glee that we have taken stock of Doe by Carolyn Friedlander! Somehow, we got it first, before it was even announced to the world at next month’s Quilt Market. And I’ve been told it won’t actually ship to US shops until December. Amazing, right? So here it is!

Doe

These pictures are from scans we made after chopping up our cards, so they aren’t quite as vivid or sharp as the fabric is in real life. We’ll try to get new pictures up soon now that we have the real fabric. You can build a Doe bundle, shop the complete Doe collection or choose from the Kona coordinates we’ve pulled together.

Kona-Doe-coordinates

So what’s the secret? How did we get this fabric first? Just dumb luck! A few weeks ago I asked my rep if he knew if there’d be a new collection from Carolyn at this market (I thought there would be, since she didn’t release one at Spring Market) and he sent me some tiny images he pulled off of the Robert Kaufman site that only distributors can access. When I told him I’d take it all, he placed an order and totally out of the blue, it arrived this week! So…enjoy!

Comments { 0 }

Emmajane’s “Vincent” Star table runner, table mats and coasters

We absolutely love this matching set of table mats, table runner and coasters designed by Emmajane McNulty of Stitch and Pieces! It’s just so lovely and inspiring, we could see making up a set for every season. Stitched up in Arcadia by Sarah Watson, this set is gorgeous for summer (like our outdoor picnic style setting we chose for the homepage shot!) But wouldn’t a Christmas version be fun too? And perhaps one in all solids? Ahhh, so much fun. Thank you, Emmajane!

Table

This table runner, table mats and coasters set is a quick project to add a splash of colour to meal times. I love making table mats because they are quilts on a mini scale and are so much faster to put together than a full size quilt. They also make great gifts for friends who need a little fabric loveliness in their lives.

I used 11 fat quarters, a combination of patterned prints from Arcadia by Cloud9 for this project and a metre of Kona Cotton Solid in Windsor for the backing. This project works best if you use contrast colour combinations to emphasise the star shape. I divided my fat quarters into two main groups; five “blues” and five “lights”. The eleventh fat quarter was used to border the stars in the table runner.

I hope you enjoy making this project as much as I enjoyed creating it!

Fabric Requirements:
11 fat quarters (five “blues”, five “lights”, one to border the table runner)
1m fabric for the all the backing and also the binding for the coasters (I used Kona Cotton Solid in Windsor)
1.1 m of 45” wide wadding
Notes:
Finished table runner size 12½” x 32½”
Finished table mat size 11½” square
Finished coaster size 4” square
Seam allowance is ¼” unless stated otherwise
Press all seams open unless stated otherwise

To make the Table Runner:

Cutting and Preparation:

To make the front of the table runner:

Cut 12 3¼” squares from the light fabrics.
Cut 12 3¼” squares from the blue fabrics.
Cut 12 2½” squares from the blue fabrics.
Cut 3 4½” squares from the light fabrics. (As these are the centre of the star, it works best to have patterned fabrics here and not solids.)
Cut 4 9” x 2½” strips from the border fabric.
Cut 2 33” x 2½” strips in the border fabric (for these larger strips you will need to cut strips of fabric and join them together to get the required length.)
Cut 1 14” x 34” from Kona Windsor for the backing fabric.
Cut 1 14” x 34” piece of wadding.

There will be plenty of fabric leftover from the fat quarters to create scrappy binding which also adds a zing to the finished project, so leave making the binding until the piecing and quilting have been completed.

Sewing:

Make half square triangles (HST) by drawing a diagonal from corner to corner of each blue 3¼” square. Pair with a 3¼” light square and right sides together sew ¼” down either side of the line. Cut on the line, open out and press seams to make HSTs. Trim to 2½” squares.

HSTs star table mats

Sew these together in pairs to create the points of your star and press the seams. Remember to piece these as mirror images to create the correct contrast between your light and blue fabrics.
You are now ready to piece the star together. The photo shows you the different elements.

Star mats piecing

When you have created all three stars it is now time to add the borders. Sew your 9” x 2½” border strips between the stars and at the end to create the length of the runner. Press your seams. Now sew the long border strips you cut and pieced earlier to the top and bottom of the runner. Press seams and the table runner.

Now piece the three blocks together using the smaller border fabric. Press the seams and then sew the large border strips to the top and the bottom.

Press the table runner top really well and remove any loose threads.

Basting and Quilting:

Make the quilt sandwich, using your preferred method. Quilt as desired. I quilted three stars, following the star shapes on the table runner using my walking foot. I used Aurifil Cotton 50Wt thread #2024, which is a brilliant white colour on the front and #2780 on the back which matched the blue backing fabric.

Trim the table runner in preparation for attaching the binding.

Binding:

Scrappy binding works brilliantly on the runner and mats, especially if you sew the binding fabrics together in a blue, light, blue sequence.

Cut 2½” strips from the leftover fat quarters. Sew end to end until you have about 100”. I started and ended the binding with the same fabric because I think it gives a more professional finish to the table runner when completed.

Fold binding in half lengthwise and press well.

Attach binding by machine using a ¼” seam and then finish by hand or machine.

IMG_9233

To make the Table Mats:

Cut 16 4” squares from the light fabrics.
Cut 16 4” squares from the blue fabrics.
Cut 16 3¼” squares from the light fabrics.
Cut 4 6” squares from the blue fabrics. (Again, as these are the centre of the star, it works best to have patterned fabrics here and not solids.)
Cut 4 12½” squares from Kona Windsor for the backing fabric.
Cut 4 12½” x 12½” pieces of wadding.

Sewing:

Each placemat follows the order for making the table runner, although this time your blue fabrics will make up the star shape and the light fabrics will frame the star. There will also be no border, so these are speedy to piece together. The only difference is that this time your HSTs are made from pairing light and blue 4” squares. When you have made these then trim them to make 3¼” squares.

Basting and Quilting:

For each of the table mats make a quilt sandwich. Quilt to match the table runner. This time I quilted with Aurifil Cotton 50Wt thread #2780 on the front and back because the stars on the table mats are made with the blue fabrics.

Binding:

Repeat how you made the scrappy binding for the table runner. This time you will need approximately 50” for each table mat. You need four of these in total.

IMG_9237

To make the coasters:

Cutting and Preparation:

Cut 2 5” squares from the light fabrics.
Cut 2 5” squares from the blue fabrics.
Cut 4 5½” squares from the backing fabric.
Cut 4 5½” x 5½” pieces of wadding.
Cut 4 2½” x 20” strips of backing fabric to make the binding.

Sewing:

The coasters are made up from simple quarter square triangles. Pair each of the two light 5” squares with a blue 5” square. Place them right sides together and draw two diagonal lines on each of the blue squares. Sew a ¼” line down either side of one line only. Then cut along both drawn lines. You will now have two quarter square triangles. Press all seams and sew together two sets of quarter square triangles with a ¼” seam to create a square of four triangles. Press all seams.

QSTs star coasters

Basting and Quilting:

For each of the coasters make a quilt sandwich with a 5½” square of backing fabric and wadding. I quilted two sets of tramlines, following the lines of the triangles. I quilted with white thread on the front and blue thread on the back. Trim each coaster to create a 4” square.

Binding:

As you are working on a small scale it is best to use one fabric here for the binding. Use the strips to create your binding and attach either by machine on by hand.

arcadia-coasters

That’s it, you’re done! It’s now time to set the table and enjoy a nice meal!

 

Comments { 1 }

The Village Stash Society Colour of the Month for September: Purple

We love purple, but it’s tricky to find! Putting these bundles together for our Colour of the Month Club took more effort than usual – but we’re super pleased with the mix of plum, lavender, lilac and proper purple that are in the mix. The feedback on these bundles is that they are filling a glaring hole in the stashes of our Colour of the Month Club members. And adding a few more purples to our shelves for these bundles filled a hole on our shelves, so it’s great news all around!

Purple-designer-club

Clockwise from top:

Cotton + Steel BasicsDottie in Grape (Cotton + Steel)
SplendorGeometric in Lilac by Lila Tueller (Riley Blake)
The Color Collection – Square in Purple by Modern Quilt Studio (Andover)
True Colors – Sealing Wax in Amethyst by Anna Maria Horner (FreeSprit)
Sketch Basic in Purple (Timeless Treasures)
Waterfront Park – Domino Dot in Jewel by Violet Craft (Michael Miller)
DottieSmall Dots in Purple (Moda)
Pearl BraceletsGrape Jelly by Lizzy House (Andover)
Squared Elements – Merlot (Art Gallery Fabrics)
Mirror Ball Dot  – Twilight by Mark Hordysynski (Michael Miller)

purple-organic-club

Clockwise from top right:

Micromod – Seaweed in Purple by Rob Bancroft (Cloud9)
Poplin – Small Check in Lavender Frost (C.Pauli)
New Leaf – Floret in Raspberry (Daisy Janey)
Koi – Smile and Wave in Plum by Rashida Coleman-Hale (Cloud9)
Once upon a Time – Royal Grape by Amanda Cha-Dessolier
Avalon – Take Flight in Purple by Jay-Cyn Designs (Birch)

You have until 10 October to join our Colour of the Month Club and receive September’s light blue bundles – that’s right, it’s been a year and we’re starting over again! Watch this space for some exciting club updates to celebrate.

Comments { 1 }

Eva’s fabric basket tutorial

We love Eva Rose‘s fabric baskets! These are the perfect size to fit our fat quarters (the way we fold them!) most of our sewing patterns (they are the perfect width for Sewaholic, Colette, etc) and look just lovely stuffed full of pretty skeins of yarn. And in Gleeful by Caroline Hulse, they are a bright and cheerful addition to the sewing room. I bet you can’t wait to make your own. Thanks, Eva!

Gleeful by Caroline Hulse

Makes a finished basket measuring 9.5” Long, 6” deep and 6” high.

You will need:

Fabrics (We used Gleeful by Sew Caroline, Art Gallery fabrics)
• 2 Pieces 17”x 10” for the main basket body
• 2 Pieces 17”x 10” for the interior lining
• 2 Pieces 17”x 5” for the exterior pockets
• 2 Pieces 17”x 5” for the pockets lining
• 2 Pieces 10”x 5” for the handles

DSCN2071

Fusible Fleece (We used HeatnBond Fusible Fleece Iron on High Loft, Non Woven)
• 2 Pieces 16”x 9” for the main basket body
• 2 Pieces 16”x 9” for the interior lining
• 2 Piecies 10”x 1 1/4” for the handles

Tools
• Sewing Machine, Scissors, Pins, Ruler, Pencil, Selection of Matching Threads, Iron

Instructions

****All seam allowances are ½ inch*****

1) Iron all your fabics and cut them to size. We are using Charms Abloom (pink) for the main body, Springs Breeze (white) for the lining, Preppy Fleurs (blue) for the pockets, Springs Sun (yellow) for the pocket lining and Charms Abloom (pink) for the handles.

2) Cut the fleece to size

DSCN2072

3) Place the fleece on the wrong side of the fabic leaving an even border all round. Flip the fabric and fleece over and using the iron fuse the fleece to the fabric following the manufacturer’s recommendation.

DSCN2073

DSCN2074

4) To make the handles, fold the handles fabric in half wrong sides together and press a crease with the iron

basket 5

5) Get the strip of fusible fleece and place it along the crease

basket 6

basket 7

6) Fold down the fabric around the fleece and press. Fold the other side and press.

basket 8

basket 9

7) Fold again to form a strip and press well. Choose a matching thread to sew around the handles.

basket 10

basket 11

8) Trim the handles to be exactly the same length.

basket 12

9) Mark a line ½ from the edge on each handle. This will be your mark for the final assembly. Put to one side.

basket 13

10) Take a pocket outer fabric and a pocket lining fabric. Place them right sides together and pin both long sides.

basket 14

basket 15

11) Sew along both long sides, locking your seam at the start and finish. Make sure you leave the short sides unstitched. Repeat for the second pocket and lining.

basket 16

basket 17

TIP: To ensure accuracy, stitch only one long side of the second pocket. Then place over the first pocket and mark the stitch line for the other side. This will ensure your pocket pieces are absolutely identical in height and give nice matching seams to the finished project.

12) Iron the pieces from the wrong side well.

basket 18

13) Roll the tube you have made, pressing the seam open with your hand. Iron the open seam down.

basket 19

14) Turn the tube right side out and press those seams open again

basket 20

basket 21

15) Get your ruler and your pencil and mark ½ inch above the seam line. This will create the top edging of the pocket.

basket 22

16) Carefully roll the fabric back and press a crease on the pencil drawn line. Take your time and move the iron slowly. This is what it will look like from both sides.

DSCN2099

DSCN2100

17) Repeat the process with the other pocket and you will have two nicely pressed pieces.

DSCN2101

DSCN2102

18) At the sewing machine you will stitch in the ditch between the yellow and blue fabric to stabilise the pocket. Use your ditch foot and a suitable colour thread. If you don’t have this foot, just stitch slowly. I used a yellow thread as I did not want it showing at the back.

DSCN2103

DSCN2106

19) Place the pocket on your main outer fabric. Make sure you have the edging on the top. Measure 3” ½” from the bottom of the main fabric- this will be where you place the bottom of the pocket. Pin in place.

DSCN2108

20) Now you may wish to divide the pocket into compartments. I marked 3” ½” from the left and the right edge, to coincide with the corner of the basket, once it is formed.

DSCN2109

DSCN2110

21) To mark a centre line, fold the fabric over to find the middle point and press with your finger to form a crease. Using that as a guide mark a line down the centre of the pocket.

DSCN2111

DSCN2112

22) Choose a suitable thread for the pocket and begin sewing the long bottom side of the pocket. Make sure you do NOT sew the top with the edging. Lock your stitch at both ends.

DSCN2115

DSCN2117
23) Now sew the vertical lines to divide the pockets. I like to use triple stitch, backstitching a few times at both ends.

DSCN2119

DSCN2120

24) Use a zig zag stitch at the end of each pocket, to stop any fraying and ensure a neat finish. Repeat for the other main fabric and pocket. Once you finish sewing press well with the iron.

DSCN2121

DSCN2122

25) Place the main outer pieces right sides together, with the open part of the pocket to the top. Take care to match the top edging and pin the left, bottom and right side.

DSCN2123

DSCN2124

26) Sew these three sides- do NOT sew the top.

DSCN2127

27) Mark a 3” by 3” square from the sewing line (or 3” ½” from the fabric edge) at both bottom corners. Flip over and do the same on the other side.

DSCN2135

28) Stand your project up and push the corner down to form a triangle. Press the seams open with your finger.

DSCN2136

DSCN2137

29) Looking inside the basket, match the two lines. Walk your fingers slowly on the outside of the basket, matching the lines as you go. Pin in place.

DSCN2138

DSCN2140

30) You should now have the line you drew before as your guide to sew over.

DSCN2141-2

DSCN2142

31) Stitch on the line, locking your stitch. You may want to use triple stitch or go over a couple of times.

DSCN2143

32) Trim the excess leaving a ½” seam allowance.

DSCN2145

33) Repeat for the other side and your project will look like this. Turn it right side out.

DSCN2146

DSCN2147

34) To attach the handles lay the basket flat and mark 1” either side of the centre seam.

DSCN2158

DSCN2159-2

35) Position the handle using the ½” mark you made earlier as a guide.

DSCN2160

36) Pin in place and repeat for the other end of the handle. Do the same for the other side of the basket.

DSCN2161

37) Secure the handles to the body using a zig zag stitch. This will ensure they stay in place for the final assembly.

DSCN2163

DSCN2162

38) To make the lining, get your two lining fabrics.

DSCN2164

39) Place right sides together. Pin left, bottom and right sides.

DSCN2165

DSCN2166

40) Stitch leaving the top side open.

DSCN2168

41) Mark just as you did for the outer main part.

DSCN2170

DSCN2171

42) Stitch along the line to box the corners and trim the excess.

DSCN2173

DSCN2174

DSCN2175

43) You should now have the lining and the basket ready to iron.

DSCN2176

44) Iron the seams of the lining flat. It helps if you hook it at the end of the ironing board.

DSCN2177

DSCN2178

Use a pressing cloth to protect your iron from the fusible fleece.

DSCN2179

45) Following the fleece edge and fabric pattern as a guide, turn a ½ edge and press. Continue working all around. Turn an edge for the outer basket too. Use the ruler as a guide if necessary.

DSCN2180

DSCN2181

DSCN2182

This is what both should look like now.

46) Place the lining in the basket. Do not worry if it looks a mess, it will look nice soon!

DSCN2183

DSCN2184

47) Line up the seams and start pinning. Use lots of pins

DSCN2185

48) Sew all round locking the stitch. You may want to increase your stitch length and width now to allow for the bulk of all the layers. I stitched a second line just under the first one, for decoration.

DSCN2189

And you are done!

IMG_9222

Basket-Case-newsletter

 

Comments { 3 }

Fly Away by Phyllida Coroneo now in stock

Phyllida Coroneo‘s second collection for Dashwood Studio, Fly Away, just arrived this morning! It’s a whimsical, nature inspired collection in a refreshing and on-trend palette of lime green, cornflower blue, grey and mint green. Shop the Fly Away collection or build a Fly Away bundle!
Fly Away by Phyllida Coroneo

Comments { 0 }

Join us for a special event with Cloud9 Fabrics!

Ever wondered what it means to buy organic fabric? Join us on Sunday, 2 November at 2pm to hear Gina Pantastico, co-founder and director of operations for Cloud9 Fabrics, give a talk about the difference between organic and conventional cotton and the impact buying organic has on your health and the environment. Cloud9 is one of the fastest growing organic fabric companies in the industry, and Gina seriously knows her market. Here is an interview I did with Gina way back when, so you can get a taste of what you’re in for!

Michelle and Gina, founders of Cloud9 Fabrics

Michelle and Gina, founders of Cloud9 Fabrics

You’ll also have the rare opportunity to see the very newest Cloud9 collections, which will be revealed for the first time just one week earlier at Quilt Market in Houston! Gina and Michelle keep their launches tightly under wraps until each Quilt Market, so it’s always super exciting to see what’s happening in their booth at the show. Gina will have loads of samples and artwork to share.

Cloud9's booth at Spring Market 2014 in Pittsburgh

Cloud9’s booth at Spring Market 2014 in Pittsburgh

If that’s not enough, we’ll have wine and nibbles for you to enjoy whilst you save 10% off all Cloud9 fabrics! This is a free event at our West Hampstead shop. Please rsvp to annie@thevillagehaberdashery.co.uk if you are planning to attend so we can keep a head count.

 

Comments { 0 }

Roisin’s perfect pillowcase tutorial

Making your own pillowcases is such a fun way to liven up your room, whether it’s a bright colour or a fun print, so I was thrilled when Roisin offered to do a tutorial for The Daily Stitch! She chose Nani Iro Painting Check in D for her sample – an amazingly soft brushed cotton/flannel that is absolutely decadent on a pillow. I highly recommend this substrate for the cosiest pillows of your life! Read on for the tutorial, and shop our flannel selection here. Thanks, Roisin!

Perfect-Pillows
The fabric I chose for this project is Nano Iro’s Painting Check (108w) in brushed cotton. To make a pair of pillowcases, you will need a little less than 2m. Sometimes it is nice to have a pattern but the paper pattern piece required here would be very large so it’s easiest to just measure directly on to the fabric.

Untitled1
If you’re a fabric recycler, this pillowcase project is an ideal way to recycle the good parts of old sheets that are a bit threadbare. I have a habit of buying 1m of fabric if I see something I like but don’t yet have an idea what I’d like to make. My fabric stash has lots of 1m lengths of fabric. For this project, I started off with 0.8m which meant I cut the width in half and had to sew the two bits together to make the fabric longer. The finished pillowcase has an unseemly seam on one side, however, it’s nice to know this project does work from 1m of fabric! These instructions would be more complicated if I worried about where to position that seam and it’s nicer for a pillowcase to be made from one long length of fabric. So let’s work with a 2m or so length of fabric and meanwhile I can live with the seam on the underside of my pillow!

Untitled3

[1] Measure an existing pillowcase (or cushion cover etc)
– Right side (pretty side) out, as it would be facing on the bed
– Without a pillow inside

Untitled4
Mine measures 68cm in length and 48cm in width

[2a] We need to write a formula for the correct measurements for cutting the fabric. You can skip this figuring-out step and jump on to the next step, simply using assumptions made on your behalf – but I just know there are some like-minded mathematical heads out there who will appreciate this additional step!

Decide on your hem allowance (h.a.) and seam allowance (s.a.) measurements, and on the overlap (r). The overlap is the fabric at the pillowcase opening which conceals the pillow, put another way the pillow will tuck into this extra fabric. I had been allowing a quarter of the pillow-length but realise that this overlap/tuck is also providing ease and room for the puffiness of the pillow so I am now working with an overlap of one third of the end length, however it doesn’t end up like that when sewn up! In rewriting the formula, you can play with this and experiment depending on the fluffiness of your pillows and your own preferences.

Untitled5My h.a. is 3cm and s.a. is 1.5cm. The overlap is one third so r=3. Remember the length is cut on the fold. Don’t worry, this stuff melts my brain too!

[2] Using these formulas, and replacing L and W with the measurements you took, calculate the size for cutting the fabric on the fold:

Untitled6In my example, I will be cutting 83x51cm

Untitled7[3] Fold the fabric. Measure the length away from the folded edge and the width along the folded edge. Cut.

Untitled8[4a] Overlock the long edges of the fabric, single thickness -This step is optional
[4] Hem the two short ends of the cut fabric. Hem allowance is 3cm (unless you calculated a different formula)

Untitled9
Iron a crease along that line. Fold under the fabric edge and iron again

Untitled10
Then sew, backstitching at start and finish

Untitled11
[5] You will now be folding the fabric, right sides together – measure from one of the hemmed edges the length of the finished pillowcase and fold at that point

Untitled12
In my example, I’m measuring 68cm
[6] Fold the extra piece over, lining it up closely with the edge so that it too measures the finished desired length. (This is the overlap or tuck discussed in the calculation explanation above.)

Untitled13
i.e. 68cm

Untitled14
[7] Sew along the long sides, backstitching at start and end with a seam allowance of 1.5cm (unless you calculated a different s.a. in your own formula).

[8] Turn right-side-out

Untitled15
[9] Insert pillow!

Perfect-Pillows-newsletter

Comments { 2 }
The Village Haberdashery

Our new Summer-to-Autumn shop window display!

Our little window is a bit eclectic this month! It started as kind of a tribute to Cotton + Steel’s debut collections, and then sort of sprawled, as these things tend to do, and now I can’t really remember how we got to were we are. And so. It’s a little bit Cotton + Steel, a little bit Chambray Union and a lot of Kona Cotton Solids. I absolutely love it. Here is a little more info about our samples.

The Village Haberdashery

I usually go left to right, but let’s start with the quilt first this time since it truly ties our window together. Our quilt is sewn by Charlotte Newland, who is teaching a class on this very pattern at this very moment! The pattern is Simply Sampled by Jeni Baker and it looks really amazing in Kona Cotton Solids. We selected the 20 solids for the front by picking out all the colours of the entire Cotton + Steel rainbow. No, we didn’t write these down. But that would have been a swell idea…

Here is the list of Konas: Ice frappe, Navy, Coral, Ash, Cerise, Candy green, Emerald, Curry, Pewter, Blush Pink, Wasabi, Pond, Petal, Salmon, Spice and Mango. The sashing is PFD Bleached White, the border is Ash and the backing and binding are Navy. Whew!

The Village Haberdashery

The first little outfit is the Oliver + S 2 + 2 Blouse and Pleated Skirt. The top is sewn in September Blue by Susan Driscoll for Dashwood Studio. The trim is in a coordinating Kona Cotton Solids by Robert Kaufman. The little skirt is sewn in Dot Chambray in Indigo from Chambray Union by Robert Kaufman, the one we can barely keep in stock (but we have a new bolt on the shelf at the time of this typing!) Both have pink buttons. This outfit was sewn by Charlotte.

The Village Haberdashery

The Village Haberdashery

The Village Haberdashery

The Village Haberdashery

The second little outfit is the Oliver + S Book Report Dress in All the States in Aqua from Hatbox by Alexia Abegg for Cotton + Steel and Kona Cotton Solids by Robert Kaufman with light blue buttons. Charlotte made this darling dress too.

The Village Haberdashery

The Village Haberdashery

The Village Haberdashery

On our lady we have a Traveler Dress by Lisette sewn by Zoe Edwards, who is going to be teaching a class on this pattern in November. The dress is sewn in Slub Chambray in Indigo from Chambray Union by Robert Kaufman and it fits me, and I love wearing it. Seriously – this is a class worth taking because this is a dress worth having!

The Village Haberdashery

The Village Haberdashery

The Village Haberdashery

I made the figure 8 cowl our lady is wearing using Window Vine Lawn in Navy from Homebody by Kim Kight for Cotton + Steel and Cambridge lawn in Mango by Robert Kaufman, along with a good helping of mini pom pom trim in aqua. You can find my tutorial for this project here.

Comments { 0 }