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Tutorial! Sara’s Mendocino fish quilt block

We sent Sara a bundle of Mendocino a few months ago with the task of creating a quilt for a window display in our West Hampstead shop (we’ll share the new window next week!) Sara previously made this gorgeous Tiger Lily quilt so we couldn’t wait to see what she’d make with the latest Heather Ross collection. Needless to say, we were not disappointed. This quilt is a stunner!

Sara is back today on The Daily Stitch to show us how to whip up those awesome fish blocks! Take it away, Sara!

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

I was so inspired by all of the amazing makes with Mendocino at Quilt Market, especially the fantastic octopus and seahorse quilts (check them out in Annie’s Quilt Market report). In the same vibe, I decided to make a shoal of fish swimming amongst the mermaids and octopi.

Materials

For the fish blocks, I used:

  • 19 FQ from Mendocino for the main bodies of the fish in the pink-brown-orange colourways (I repeated three to make 22 fish) – there was lots left over
  • 1m of Kona in Aqua for the fish backgrounds

For the quilt background, I used:

¼ inch seam is used throughout. The finished quilt measures approximately 45×55 inches.

Cutting

For each fish block, cut the following, using the template. I traced this onto template plastic to help with fussy cutting.

From main fabric:

1 x fish body piece

1 x fish tail piece

From background fabric:

2 x fish body background piece

2 x fish tail background piece

1 x fish tail end piece

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

Piecing

1. Take the main body piece and the two body background pieces, fold them in half lengthways and finger press the centre line. For the background pieces, you should be matching the end points of the curve, rather than the ends of the fabric.

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

Place the body piece on top of one of the background pieces, right sides together, with the centre creases matching.

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

2. Match each end point of the fish body piece with the end of the curve on the background piece and pin. Find the mid point between the centre pin and each end pin and pin here, too. You can finger press another crease between the end and the centre crease to make sure that this is accurate, but I don’t bother with this part. The pinned piece will look full of folds, but it will come together, I promise!

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

3. Start stitching the pieces together at one end. The trick is to go slowly and stop frequently to check that the edges are still aligned and to move excess fabric from one side to the other, to ensure that it doesn’t get caught in the needle. I find that it helps to hold the fabrics up at an angle with my left hand whilst sewing. The important thing is not to stretch the fabric to try to make it fit the curve – this will cause a misshapen finished block that won’t lie flat. Press the seam towards the background fabric.

4. Take your second body background piece, making sure that you have the longer sides matching, and align and pin the centre creases, right sides together.

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

This time you need the background piece to overlap your existing seam by ¼ inch.

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

5. Pin and sew in the same way as for the first seam, lifting the fabric up slightly with your left hand if that makes things easier.

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

6. Press the seam towards the background fabric again. You should have something that looks a bit like this – but I must confess that I pressed one of the seams the wrong way in this block, so it looks slightly different!

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

7. You will notice that there is a smaller amount of background fabric at one end of your block. Line up your ruler so that one line cuts through the two points of the fish body, and trim this end down to just under ¼ inch from the end of the fish.

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

8. Now we’ll piece the tail. Take the main tail piece and the two background tail pieces and make the centre creases as you did for the body.

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

9. Pin the centre crease and each end, overlapping the background piece at the point of the tail (where it will join the body) by ¼ inch.

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

10. Sew the seam with the same method you used for the body, and press the seam towards the background fabric. You should have something that looks like this.

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

11. Pin your second tail background piece in the same way, ensuring that it overlaps by ¼ inch at the point of the tail.

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

Sew and press seams towards the background fabric.

12. Take your tail end piece and fold it so that the two ends of the curve match. Finger press a crease at the centre of the curve, and in the centre of the curve of your main tail piece. Match and pin the centre creases.

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

13. Pin the ends of each curve as you did for the body and tail pieces. Take the straight edge pieces and shift these so that they are at 90 degrees to the main tail background pieces. It will look something like this, but ignore the fact that I had got ahead of myself and already sewed the tail to the body in this photo!

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

14. Sew the tail end seam, stopping with the needle down when you get to the beginning of the the curve and rotating the fabric to keep your ¼ inch seam allowance. Sew the curve in exactly the same way as for the body and the tail, stopping again when you get to the end of the curve and rotating to sew the final straight seam. Press towards the background fabric.

15. Trim the little triangles of fabric at the point of the tail so that you have a straight edge. Try to ensure that you have one of the lines of the ruler cutting through the centre of the tail so that you have a 90 degree angle, and keep the seam allowance as close to ¼ inch as you can (it will be slightly smaller, which you want).

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

16. Line up the trimmed ends of the tail and body pieces and pin. To make sure that the tail and the body meet in the right place, I put a pin through the point of the tail piece and then put this through the point of the body piece.

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

Sew and press this final seam.

17. Finally, trim your block. How much you need to trim depends on what size you want your block to be. There is quite a lot of extra fabric on all sides, so that I could be flexible in this stage. I trimmed the bare minimum, just to ensure that the block was squared up.

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

Finishing the quilt

To make the quilt top, I pieced 22 fish blocks together improvisationally, inserting extra pieces of background fabric to give the shoal movement. The quilt background is simply pieced from 6.5” blocks in a mixure of Kona Aqua, four blue Mendocino prints, and a few 9-patch blocks randomly pieced in Kona Aqua, Azure and Bahama Blue in order to create a dappled effect.

I quilted using wavy lines and used leftovers from the pink prints for the binding.

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

Mendocino quilt fish block tutorial

Comments { 5 }

Caroline’s Sommer strip quilt tutorial

Caroline made the prettiest pink and green quilt for our early spring shop window display using fabrics from Sommer by Sarah Jane and coordinating Kona Cotton Solids! This is a super simple strip quilt but the result is an absolutely adorable gift for a baby girl’s nursery.  Plus it makes use of that darling border print!

Sommer strip quilt tutorial

Strip quilts couldn’t be easier so we aren’t providing a full tutorial, but I asked Caroline to share her fabric list, measurements and layout to take the guesswork out of making a similar quilt if you want to use this idea.

PLEASE NOTE, FABRIC AND MATERIALS REQUIREMENTS AND LAYOUT HAVE BEEN UPDATED FOLLOWING USER FEEDBACK

You will need:

Fabric

A. Kona Cotton Solids – Pear (1.5 metres for backing and front strips)
B. Sommer – Sommer Swan in Grass (.5 metre)
C. Sommer – Sommer Garden in Bloom (.25 metre)
D. Kona Cotton Solids – Primrose (.75 metre for front strips and binding)
E. Sommer – Tulip Tangled in Bloom (.25 metre)
F. Sommer – Garden Shadow in Meadow (.25 metre)
G. Sommer – Sundborn in Blossom (.25 metre)
H. Sommer – Tulip Folk in Bloom (.25 metre)
I. Sommer – Double Border in Summer (1 metre – you’ll only use the border from one side of the piece, so you’ll have leftovers for cushions or another use!)

Please note that you need skinny or long quarters of these fabrics, so make sure to put in this request before you check out. You can also call or email us with your order number after you purchase to request skinny quarters.

Other Supplies

Cot size wadding – Caroline used Quilters Dream Natural Request cotton wadding. Please note, if you use this size wadding it will be a close fit to the size of your quilt, without much overhang. If you prefer more wiggle room, opt for a larger size wadding. 
505 Basting Spray (or basting pins)
Thread for piecing and quilting (Caroline used Aurifil 50wt in 3320)

Sommer strip quilt tutorial

Cutting

– Cut 4″ strips out of fabrics A-H
– Cut an 11″ strip out of fabric I (the border print)
– Cut a 43″ piece of fabric A (main backing fabric)

All fabric strips should be the full width of the fabric

Sewing

Sew fabrics with a 1/4″ seam allowance

Quilt front layout

Sommer Quilt Top_updated

Quilt back layout

Sommer strip quilt tutorial

Here is a picture of the full quilt for reference. I didn’t manage to actually get a full shot of the back, unfortunately!

Sommer strip quilt tutorial

Finishing

– Press the quilt top and back.
– Baste as desired. Caroline used 505 Basting Spray.
– Quilt, bind and enjoy!

Sommer strip quilt tutorial

Sommer strip quilt tutorial

 

Comments { 3 }

Meet our teachers: Jenny Haynes of Papper, Sax, Sten, quilting

We are thrilled to introduce our newest teacher, Jenny Haynes. A Swedish exile who spent the previous 18 years in Hackney, Jenny creates bespoke quilts and furnishings for her label ‘Papper, Sax, Sten‘ (that’s ‘Paper, Scissors, Stone’ if you’re wondering!) that reflect these different influences. Her pieces are recognised for their clean and simple mid-century modern design and the mixing of vintage fabrics with modern prints, rich colours with pastels, wool and silk with linen and cotton.

Jenny Haynes Papper Sax Sten

Jenny will be teaching four classes at The Village Haberdashery, beginning with Patchwork Techniques: Machine Pieced Curves on Saturday, 12 March. In this inspiring one-day class you’ll learn to sew beautiful curves on your machine whilst Jenny guides you through the process of cutting and piecing a lap or baby sized quilt top using her own curvy sunflower design. Click here to sign up for a place in any of Jenny’s classes and read on to learn more about her!

Learn how to machine piece curves with jenny haynes

Your work has such a distinct aesthetic. Are you influenced by your Swedish roots? How would you describe your style?

Yes definitely. With so many great designers, of furniture, textiles and ceramics, I think Swedes take the aesthetics for granted a bit. Someone (who’s opinion I value highly) once described my Sunflower Quilt as calm. That serene and non-hectic design that many Swedish makers are known for has always appealed to me.

Jenny Haynes Papper Sax Sten

Jenny Haynes Papper Sax Sten

You have a background in pattern cutting, tailoring and fashion, but your business is creating patchwork quilts and home furnishings. What led you to your current niche?

It all started with quilts. It’s something I’ve always made and it’s always been about shapes and textiles and never about fashion. I don’t think the years I’ve spent as a Pattern Cutter has changed me much apart from making me even more obsessed about matching seams.

Jenny Haynes Papper Sax Sten

Jenny Haynes Papper Sax Sten

I love that you share sketches of your designs on Instagram in the very early stages. Does feedback from the sewing community help you progress your projects?

I’ve been a late starter with social media. It is a lovely thing to be surrounded by other creative minds. It’s a creative hub without the shared studio space. I’ve got such a clear idea in my head though and the part of the process that will make me change a design is usually experimentation, figuring things out whilst working with the fabrics.

Jenny Haynes Papper Sax Sten

Jenny Haynes Papper Sax Sten

You regularly include elements that intimidate a lot of quilters (i.e. mixing fabric substrates, piecing curves). Any tips for tackling fear?

Don’t start with your favourite fabric, try on something else first. Also I always go for the difficult option first and then simplify or change to a more forgiving fabric if my idea doesn’t work.

Jenny Haynes Papper Sax Sten

Jenny Haynes Papper Sax Sten

Your first class at The Village Haberdashery is Patchwork Techniques: Machine Pieced Curves on Saturday, 12 March. What will students learn?

Of course we’ll cut, sew and press many, many curves but I will also share lots of little tricks I’ve picked up along the way: how to mark your fabric using a pin, what an unpicker is brilliant for except unpicking and my favourite way to edge finished quilt.

Jenny Haynes Papper Sax Sten

Jenny Haynes Papper Sax Sten

Comments { 1 }

Free pattern and tutorial: Emmajané’s Arrows Quilt

We’re thrilled to have a new free pattern for you today from Emmajané of Stitch and Pieces. Her lovely new Arrows Quilt is now gracing the new window display at our West Hampstead shop. When we posted a sneak peak on Instagram, you guys went wild for this quilt, so I know you’re going to be exited to get your hands on this pattern! Take it away, Emmajané!

IMG_0163

I love half rectangle triangles and I have found a way of creating them without use of fancy rulers. This quilt uses half rectangle triangles and rectangles to create arrows.

Fabric Requirements:

*24 fat quarters (the list of the Kona Cotton Solids I used is given later in the cutting instructions)
*300cm of fabric for the backing and border
*50cm of fabric for the binding
*I used a double size piece of wadding, which is 96” x 93”

Recommended tools:

*Quilter’s ruler
*Fabric pen

Notes:

Finished quilt size 60” x 82”.

Seam allowance is ¼” throughout.

When making the half rectangle triangles press the lighter fabric seam over the darker fabric seam.

WOF refers to width of fabric.

Cutting and Preparation:

Cut the following fabrics to create 6” x 4” rectangles. The letters in brackets indicate what the fabrics will be referred to afterwards in the cutting instructions and in the pattern. The number at the side tells you how many 6” x 4” rectangles to cut. These will be used to create the half rectangle triangles.

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Cut the following fabrics to create 5” x 3” rectangles.

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Cut the following fabrics to create 5” x 1¾” rectangles. These will be the small rectangles at the beginning and end of the rectangle rows.

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

You need to cut 7 strips 3” x WOF for the border of the quilt. (I used the same as my backing, Plum).

You will also need to cut 7 strips 2½” x WOF for the binding. (I used Shadow).

Making the Half Rectangle Triangles (HRT):

There are two types of half rectangle triangle blocks to make. For ease these are going to be called 1 or 2.

HRT 1 uses Fabrics A and B. This is how the finished block is finished:

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

To make the HRT 1:

Take the two of the 6” x 4” rectangles from the correct colours. These will be called Fabric A and Fabric B. The fabric which will be on the left hand side will be right side up (here this is grey) and the fabric which will be on the right hand side will be wrong side up (here this is pink).

Then using the half inch mark on your quilter’s ruler, with a fabric pen mark a half inch on the grey fabric in the bottom left corner and top right corner. Mark a half inch on the pink fabric in the in the top left corner and bottom right corner. Then still using the fabric marker, join the dots with the quilter’s ruler.

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

Now place the wrong side fabric on top of the right side fabric, taking care to match the dots and line with one another.

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

Pin and then sew a ¼” seam either side of the line.

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

Using your rotary cutter, cut down the line.

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

Press the two blocks, ready to trim

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

This is where it gets tricky! You are going to trim these blocks to create a 5” x 3” block, but in order to get points that are perfect when you start sewing blocks together you need to cut accurately.

It’s best to trim the shorter sides first. Make sure that there is enough fabric to cut a 5” side, but make sure that ⅛” is in the bottom fabric.

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

Check that at the other side you have the angle at the correct point so that you get ⅛” of the other fabric there as well.

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

When you then trim the longer 5” edge you need to make sure that there is ⅛” of each fabric included in your trimming. It’s a bit fiddly, but you will get the hang of it.

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

Done correctly your block should look like this:

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

It does look like you’ve gone wrong because there is a blunt point, but you are going to need it like that for later (trust me).

This table shows you the combinations to pair together to make the HRT 1 blocks:

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Once you’ve got the hang of this, making the HRT 2 should be straightforward, but here are some photos and an explanation to help out:

Making HRT 2:

HRT 2 uses Fabrics C and D. This is how the finished block is finished:

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

This time our wrong side facing fabric will have the quarter inch dots at the bottom left and top right. The right side facing fabric will have the quarter inch dots at the top left and bottom right. Like before draw a line using a fabric pen on both fabrics to join the dots.

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

Match the lines as before and pin. Then sew a ¼” seam either side of the line. Then use the rotary cutter to create the two blocks.

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

Once again, press the seams and get ready for the tricky business of trimming!

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

Use the same technique as before. Make sure you trim with a ⅛” as you did previously.

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt

This table shows you the combinations to pair together to make the HRT 2 blocks:

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

The hard work is now done! It’s time to get piecing this quilt. Starting from top to bottom the pieces need sewing together like this:

Row 1

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 2

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 3

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 4

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 5

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 6

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 7

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 8

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 9

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 10

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 11

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 12

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 13

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 14

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 15

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 16

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt pattern

Row 17

Emmajané's Arrows Quilt tutorial

Once all the pieces have been sewn into rows, sew the rows together as you would with any other quilt. I then sewed my border strips together and sewed these around the arrows section.

It’s now time to press the quilt top really well and remove any loose threads.

Basting and Quilting:

Make the quilt sandwich, using your preferred method. Quilt as desired. I quilted each of the arrows with my walking foot. I quilted the arrows in threads to match the fabric colour.

Trim the quilt in preparation for attaching the binding.

Binding:

Sew the seven strips together. Fold in half and press. Attach using a ¼” foot and then either hand or machine finish.

Thank you, Emmajane!

Comments { 2 }

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

Several months ago I was wandering around an Anthropologie when I saw these awesome neon trimmed chambray oven gloves.

Oven Gloves from Anthropologie

I instagrammed them and then filed the idea away in the back of my mind as one I could share with you as a DIY, since we totally have all the supplies! So, I give you a tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves!

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

Supplies:

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

First, you’re going to want to make a pattern with one of your existing oven gloves. Look how well-loved my Cath Kidston glove is!  Make sure to either trace with a half-inch seam allowance or plan to trace the seam allowance onto your fabric.

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

Cut 1 1/2 inch bias strips from your neon fat quarter. You’ll need about a metre to a metre and a half of bias (I’m guesstimating since I made these ages ago and didn’t measure!)

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

Sandwich your wadding in between your fabric. We’re going to quilt the whole thing and then cut our pieces out afterward. If you want to avoid wasting fabric, use your pattern as a guide to what you’ll need and cut your pieces close to size.

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

Now grab your ruler and a marking pencil (I used a pink chaco liner pen – love these!) and draw your stitching lines an inch apart on the top fabric.

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

I was originally going to do a grid, but once I saw how cool the lines looked stitched in just one direction I left it simple. (Design choice not just laziness, obviously!)

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

Quilt your fabric sandwich.

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

And use your pattern to cut your pieces out of your quilted fabric – one for each side of each glove (so four pieces if you’re making a set of two.)

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

Sew two pieces together with the 1/2″ seam allowance.

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

Snip as close as possible to the stitching line between the thumb and hand.

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

Finish the raw edges with an overlocker, zig-zag stitch or pinking shears. To avoid bulk in the thumb, either trim away excess seam allowance before finishing or just try to get in close to your seam when you overlock/pink.

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

Sew the little bias tape tab that’s going to stick off of your glove by making a three-inch tube and turning it inside out or just pressing the raw edges in and edge stitching it (like me).

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

Turn your glove inside out, using a point turner to get the fiddly bits if necessary. Enclose the raw edges at the glove’s opening in bias, pin and machine stitch.

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

Fold the tab and pin the raw edges under the bias wherever you want it on the glove. Machine stitch the bias all the way around (I did a sloppy job on mine as you can see in this picture. Don’t rush!)

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

And ta da! You have awesome oven gloves to give as a gift or keep for yourself and brighten up your own kitchen!

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

Aren’t they fun?

Tutorial: Anthopologie-inspired neon and chambray oven gloves

Comments { 3 }

Star Block of the Month: December is the Puzzle Star #starbotm

I’m so thrilled to have Charlotte Newland leading our first-ever Block of the Month adventure! Charlotte will be teaching a class on this month’s block, the Puzzle Star, on Monday, 14 December, 6:30pm – 9pm. If you’re following along at home, you can find all of the blog posts about the Star Block of the Month here and we sell kits here. Don’t forget to tag any Instagram posts related to the Star Block of the Month with #starbotmTake it away, Charlotte!

Puzzle Star Tutorial from the Star Block of the Month

Welcome back to the Star Block of the Month! We’ve almost reached the end of our starry journey, and are finishing with a nice simple block – the Puzzle Star

This block is made up entirely of half-square triangles, and we will be making two 12 inch blocks (12.5 inches unfinished), without sashing. This diagram gives you the arrangement of colours in the block. As usual, the blank areas are sewn from background fabric:

Puzzle Star Tutorial from the Star Block of the Month

Cool palette:

Puzzle Star Tutorial from the Star Block of the Month

Warm palette:

Puzzle Star Tutorial from the Star Block of the Month

Cut the following for each block:

Puzzle Star Tutorial from the Star Block of the Month

Let’s make those HSTs. Draw a diagonal line across the wrong side of the eight 4.5” background squares, and put them in pairs with the colour 1 and colour 2 squares:

Puzzle Star Tutorial from the Star Block of the Month

Sew a scant 1/4” from each side of the drawn line on each pair, then cut along the line to make two HSTs:

Puzzle Star Tutorial from the Star Block of the Month

Press with the seam towards the darker fabric, and trim to 3.5” x 3.5”, making sure the 45º line on your ruler is in line with the seam. You will end up with eight HSTs in each colour:

Puzzle Star Tutorial from the Star Block of the Month

Lay out the pieces according to the block diagram and sew together. Easy peasy!

Puzzle Star Tutorial from the Star Block of the Month

Stay tuned for next week, when I’ll be showing you how to join all your blocks together to make the quilt top.

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Dorothy’s patchwork Christmas tree skirt

A Christmas tree skirt is a beautiful way to decorate your tree! In her tutorial, our lovely customer Dorothy shows us how to make a festive patchwork tree skirt that you’ll use for years and years to come. She used shop favourite Tinsel by Cotton + Steel for this project, but you’ll find a huge selection of Christmas fabric in the shop to choose from for yours. Now then, let’s crack on with the tutorial! Thank you, Dorothy!

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt tutorial

Christmas Tree Skirt (56” x 56”)

Supplies:

Quilt top
2.25 meters for squares
1.25 meters background

Binding & backing
.5 meter binding
Backing and wadding for 64” square

Thread

Cutting instructions:

From scraps cut: 496 2.5” squares
If cutting from yardage you will need 31 strips

From background cut: 88 4.5” square
Cut 10 strips

Binding – 7 strips

Screen Shot 2015-11-18 at 13.58.55

Piecing instructions:

Seam allowance ¼”

Place the 2.5” squares in opposite corners of the background square, draw a diagonal line across the small square, sew on that line and trim with ¼” seam allowance.

Sew – 16 with only 1 corner

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt tutorial

Sew – 72 with 2 corners

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt tutorial

From these make the following:

Block A – Sew 8

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt tutorial

Block B – Sew 16

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt tutorial

With the remaining 336 2.5” squares.

Block C – Sew 21

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt tutorial

Lay out blocks in the following octagon:

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt tutorial

NOTE: In haste, I trimmed the corner blocks before I quilted. I would suggest you trim after the tree skirt as been quilted to avoid stretching the bias edge.

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt tutorial

Layer backing, wadding and top then quilt as desired, I did continuous circular quilting. A tutorial on that can be found here.

Pick one side and mark the straight line down the center.

Draw a circle in the center block, approx. 4.5”.

Sew ¼” on either side of the straight line and ¼” on the outside of the circle.

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt tutorial

AFTER you have sewn, cut on the drawn lines.

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt tutorial

Binding is attached in 2 stages; straight edges first then the center circle.

Stage 1
Make binding for this stage with 6 strips. Attach binding to straight edges only, there are eight 135-degree angles on this tree skirt and I found this tutorial extremely useful.

Raw edges at the base of the circle is ok, they will be covered in stage 2.

Finish by hand or machine.

Stage 2
Attach binding to center circle with extra to tie.

In theory this should be bias binding, however I used one strip of straight cut fabric. It does not lie flat, but stands a bit upright. I do not see this as a problem as it will be flush with the tree trunk.

Press in ½” of the raw edges in at either end of the strip.

Fold the length of the strip in half and press.

Open up and fold raw edges towards the center and press.

There should be three press lines marked along the length of the strip.

Open up strip and attach to the circle, centering it so that there is equal on either side for the tie.

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt tutorial

Sew on the line around the circle only.

Fold the binding to the back and top stitch the length of the strip, ensuring that there are no raw edges exposed.

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt tutorial

And you’re done! Tie it around your tree and enjoy.

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt tutorial

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt tutorial

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt tutorial

Patchwork Christmas tree skirt

Comments { 1 }

Handmade Christmas gift ideas! Projects to make for kids

We’ve hosted so many wonderful tutorials on The Daily Stitch over the years and I thought it would be fun to round up some favourite gift ideas in different categories. So here are some of the best ideas we’ve shared for children – just in time for Christmas!

Emily’s hexagon playmat – An awesome playmat that gathers into a bag so you can take toys to go or tidy up quickly.

Emily's Hexagon Playmat

Julie’s numbered bean bags – This fun set of felt and fabric numbered bean bags is great for toddlers on up. Look for fabrics you can fussy cut!

Julie's Bean bag tutorial

Camilla’s baby leg warmers – Such a sweet present for a baby – quick to knit and so adorable they are a gift for mum too!

Camilla's Baby Leg Warmers

Colette’s Little Bird Garland – A lovely little hand sewing project that makes a darling decoration for any child’s bedroom.

Colette's Felt Bird Garland

Laminated Kid Placemat – Make mealtimes super fun with a placemat created just for your kiddo.

Laminated Kid Placemat

Ruth’s Hot Water Bottle Cosy – A personalised hot water bottle cover makes a cuddly gift for older kids.

Ruth's Hot Water Bottle Cosy

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Star Block of the Month: October is the Double Star #starbotm

I’m so thrilled to have Charlotte Newland leading our first-ever Block of the Month adventure! Charlotte will be teaching a class on this month’s block, the Double Star, on Monday, 12 October, 6:30pm – 9pm. If you’re following along at home, you can find all of the blog posts about the Star Block of the Month here and we sell kits here. Don’t forget to tag any Instagram posts related to the Star Block of the Month with #starbotmTake it away, Charlotte!

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

Welcome back to the Star Block of the Month! This month we are making the Double Star, a nice straightforward block made up of squares and half-square triangles (HSTs).

We will be sewing one 12” block (12.5” unfinished) and sashing it to 18″ (18.5″ unfinished). This diagram gives you the arrangement of colours in the block. As usual, the blank areas are sewn from background fabric:

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

The cool palette uses orchid (colour 1), candy blue (colour 2) and capri (colour 3):
Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

The warm palette uses petunia (colour 1), candy pink (colour 2) and valentine (colour 3):

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

Cut the following for each block:

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

We need to make a boat-load of HSTs for this star. Sort your 3.5″ squares into three piles: six of background + colour 2, six of background + colour 3, and two of colour 2 + colour 3:

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

Make HSTs in the usual way by drawing a diagonal line across the wrong side of the lighter square, sewing a scant 1/4” from each side of the drawn line on each pair, then cutting along the line to make two HSTs:

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

Press with the seam towards the darker fabric and trim to 2.5” x 2.5”, making sure the 45º line on your ruler is in line with the seam. You will end up with 28 HSTs:

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

Lay out your pieces to match the block diagram and sew together:

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

Add the sashing according to the block layout diagrams. Attach the 12.5” pieces to the top and bottom of the block first, press, then add the 18.5” strips to the sides.

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

That’s it for this month – see you in November!

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Star Block of the Month: August is the Sawtooth Star #starbotm

I’m so thrilled to have Charlotte Newland leading our first-ever Block of the Month adventure! Charlotte will be teaching a class on this month’s block, the Sawtooth Star, on Monday, 17 August, 6:30pm – 9pm. If you’re following along at home, you can find all of the blog posts about the Star Block of the Month here and we sell kits here. Don’t forget to tag any Instagram posts related to the Star Block of the Month with #starbotm. Take it away, Charlotte!

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

Welcome back to the Star Block of the Month! It’s another simple summer-friendly block this month, made with squares and flying geese – the sawtooth star.

We will be sewing two 8” blocks (8.5” unfinished), and making them up to 12″ (12.5″ unfinished) with sashing. Both blocks are sashed identically. This diagram gives you the arrangement of colours in the block. As usual, the blank areas are sewn from background fabric:

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

Cool palette:

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

Warm palette:

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

Cut the following for each block:

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery


First, we will use the no-waste method to make the flying geese. Take your four 2 7/8″ colour 2 squares and draw a diagonal line across each one. Place two of the squares right sides together with the 5.25″ background square, sew a scant 1/4″ from each side of the line, then cut in half as below:

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

Press the triangle pieces away, then sew another colour 2 square to each of these two pieces, stitching a scant 1/4″ away from the drawn line as usual. Cut each of these in half, press the coloured triangle away from the background piece, and trim each flying goose to 4.5″ x 2.5″:

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

Lay out your pieces to match the block diagram and sew together:

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

Repeat with the other set of fabrics to make a pair of blocks, then cut the sashing strips for each block:

Add sashing according to the block layout diagrams (both blocks are sashed in the same way). Attach the 8.5” pieces to the top and bottom of the block first, press, then add the 12.5” strips to the sides.

Star Block of the Month from The Village Haberdashery

That’s it for now, see you in September!

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