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Introducing our first Block of the Month Club!

I’m so excited to tell you about our new Block of the Month Club! Led by Charlotte Newland, this will be a fun way to learn new patchwork techniques and put together a gorgeous quilt top over the course of the year.

block of the month cool

Charlotte will introduce a new block here on The Daily Stitch the first week of every month. Each block will be a version of a star and there will be four block sizes that all fit together, with some repeats, in the end to make up a 64″ x 82″ quilt top. If you want to participate at home, you can follow along with the blog and the Instagram hashtag #starbotm.

We’ll also be offering a class on each block in our West Hampstead shop! Classes will take place on the second Monday of the month but we have only six places, so it’s a good idea to sign up early (and often!) You can find the classes here.

block of the month warm

We are putting together two kits for this pattern using Kona Cotton Solids in cool and warm colourways and Widescreen in Grey as the background. You will be able to purchase them very soon! If you’d like to choose your own fabrics, you’ll need:

  • 12 fat quarters (50 x 56cm)
  • 8 fat eighths (50cm x 28cm)
  • 1.75m background fabric

Please get in touch with any questions at info@thevillagehaberdashery. We hope you’ll join us in this awesome new project!


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Emmajane’s Ribbons Baby Quilt tutorial

I love this new quilt pattern by Emmajane McNulty of Stitch and Pieces! This baby-size quilt is perfect for fussy cutting and it’s so fun that she basically used “boy” colours to make a “girl” quilt (you know, because there are unicorns…) It’s so fresh, bright and pretty. Read on for the tutorial!


This baby quilt is called “Ribbons” because I used three colours with squares and half rectangle triangles to create ribbons of colour. To get this look I used 5 blue fabrics, 4 green fabrics and 4 lilac fabrics.

1 Fat Quarters

Fabric Requirements:
13 fat quarters (five “blues”, four “greens”, four “lilacs”)
130cm of fabric for the backing
half a metre of fabric for the binding
44” x 50” of wadding
Recommended tools:
Quilter’s ruler
Fabric pen

Finished quilt size 39” x 44”
Seam allowance is ¼” unless stated otherwise
When making the half rectangle triangles press the lighter fabric seam over the darker fabric seam.
Before starting this quilt it is important to plan your cutting. I had a unicorn print in three different colours which was perfect for fussy cutting and having centred in the 6” square blocks.

2 Fussy Cutting

Cutting and Preparation:
Cut 13 6” squares from the blue fabrics
Cut 12 6” squares from the green fabrics
Cut 10 6” squares from the lilac fabrics
Cut 16 7” x 4” rectangles from the blue fabrics
Cut 16 7” x 4” rectangles from the green fabrics
Cut 12 7” x 4” rectangles from the lilac fabrics

Making the Half Rectangle Triangles (HRT):
There are two types of half rectangle triangle blocks to make. For ease these are going to be called A or B.

To make the HRT A:
Take the two of the 7” x 4” rectangles from the correct colours. The fabric which will be on the left hand side will be right side up (here this is blue) and the fabric which will be on the right hand side will be wrong side up (here this is green).

3 Half Rectangle Triangles

Then using the half inch mark on your quilter’s ruler, with a fabric pen mark a half inch on the blue fabric in the bottom left corner and top right corner. Mark a half inch on the green fabric in the in the top left corner and bottom right corner.

4 Half Rectangle Triangles

Then still using the fabric marker, join the dots with the quilter’s ruler.

5 Half Rectangle Triangles

Now place the wrong side fabric on top of the right side fabric, taking care to match the dots and line with one another.

6 Half Rectangle Triangles

Pin and then sew a ¼” seam either side of the line.

7 Half Rectangle Triangles

Using your rotary cutter, cut down the line.

8 Half Rectangle Triangles

Press the two blocks, ready to trim.

9 Half Rectangle Triangles

This is where it gets tricky! You are going to trim these blocks to create a 6” x 3¼” block, but in order to get points that are perfect when you start sewing blocks together you need to cut accurately.
It’s best to trim the shorter sides first. Make sure that there is enough fabric to cut a 3¼” side, but make sure that ⅛” is in the bottom fabric.

10 Half Rectangle Triangles

Check that at the other side you have the angle at the correct point so that you get ⅛” of the other fabric there as well.

11 Half Rectangle Triangles

When you then trim the longer 6” edge you need to make sure that there is ⅛” of each fabric included in your trimming. It’s a bit fiddly, but you will get the hang of it.

12 Half Rectangle Triangles

14 Half Rectangle Triangles

Done correctly your block should look like this:

13 Half Rectangle Triangles

It does look like you’ve gone wrong because there is a blunt point, but you are going to need it like that for later (trust me).

This table should help you to work out how many of each HRT A blocks to make and where to place the dots:

Number of finished HRT A Fabrics to use Right side facing when cutting
Dots: bottom left & top right Wrong side facing when cutting
Dots: top left & bottom right
9 blue and green 5 blue 7” x 4”
5 green 7” x 4” blue green
6 green and lilac 3 green 7” x 4”
3 lilac 7” x 4” green lilac
6 lilac and blue 3 lilac 7” x 4”
3 blue 7” x 4” lilac blue

Once you’ve got the hang of this, making the HRT B should be straightforward, but here are some photos and an explanation to help out:

This time our wrong side facing fabric will have the quarter inch dots at the bottom left and top right. The right side facing fabric will have the quarter inch dots at the top left and bottom right. Like before draw a line using a fabric pen on both fabrics to join the dots.

15 Half Rectangle Triangles

Match the lines as before and pin. Then sew a ¼” seam either side of the line. Then use the rotary cutter to create the two blocks.

16 Half Rectangle Triangles

17 Half Rectangle Triangles

Once again, press the seams and get ready for the tricky business of trimming!

18 Half Rectangle Triangles

Use the same technique as before. Make sure you trim with a ⅛” as you did previously.

19 Half Rectangle Triangles

This second table shows you how many of each HRT B blocks to make and where to place the dots:

Number of finished HRT B Fabrics to use Right side facing when cutting
Dots: top left & bottom right Wrong side facing when cutting
Dots: bottom left & top right
9 blue and green 5 blue 7” x 4”
5 green 7” x 4” blue green
6 green and lilac 3 green 7” x 4”
3 lilac 7” x 4” green lilac
6 lilac and blue 3 lilac 7” x 4”
3 blue 7” x 4” lilac blue

The hard work is now done! It’s time to get piecing this quilt.

Prepare your layout so it looks like this: (You should see the ribbons of the three fabric colours.)
20 Piecing

Now sew the rows together.

21 Piecing

Your pieced half rectangle triangles should look like this, which is a little strangle looking but they will give you a lovely point when you use your ¼” foot:

22 Piecing

When you sew rows together be sure to press one row of seams one way the next row of seams the other so that your seams can nestle nicely next to each other when you sew the rows together.

23 Nestling seams

Your pieced quilt top will look like this:

24 Pieced

Press the quilt top really well and remove any loose threads.

Basting and Quilting:

Make the quilt sandwich, using your preferred method. Quilt as desired. I quilted tramlines with my walking foot and followed the ribbons. To emphasise the colours I quilted the blue ribbon in a blue thread, the green in a green and the lilac in a lilac thread.

25 Quilting
26 Threads for quilting

Trim the quilt in preparation for attaching the binding.


I decided to machine bind this quilt, but you can do it by hand if you wish. When I machine bind I use 2¾” strips. If I hand bind I use 2½” strips. Whichever way you need to cut five strips in total.
Sew the five strips together. Fold in half and press. Attach using a ¼” foot and then either hand or machine finish.

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The Village Haberdashery

Our new Summer-to-Autumn shop window display!

Our little window is a bit eclectic this month! It started as kind of a tribute to Cotton + Steel’s debut collections, and then sort of sprawled, as these things tend to do, and now I can’t really remember how we got to were we are. And so. It’s a little bit Cotton + Steel, a little bit Chambray Union and a lot of Kona Cotton Solids. I absolutely love it. Here is a little more info about our samples.

The Village Haberdashery

I usually go left to right, but let’s start with the quilt first this time since it truly ties our window together. Our quilt is sewn by Charlotte Newland, who is teaching a class on this very pattern at this very moment! The pattern is Simply Sampled by Jeni Baker and it looks really amazing in Kona Cotton Solids. We selected the 20 solids for the front by picking out all the colours of the entire Cotton + Steel rainbow. No, we didn’t write these down. But that would have been a swell idea…

Here is the list of Konas: Ice frappe, Navy, Coral, Ash, Cerise, Candy green, Emerald, Curry, Pewter, Blush Pink, Wasabi, Pond, Petal, Salmon, Spice and Mango. The sashing is PFD Bleached White, the border is Ash and the backing and binding are Navy. Whew!

The Village Haberdashery

The first little outfit is the Oliver + S 2 + 2 Blouse and Pleated Skirt. The top is sewn in September Blue by Susan Driscoll for Dashwood Studio. The trim is in a coordinating Kona Cotton Solids by Robert Kaufman. The little skirt is sewn in Dot Chambray in Indigo from Chambray Union by Robert Kaufman, the one we can barely keep in stock (but we have a new bolt on the shelf at the time of this typing!) Both have pink buttons. This outfit was sewn by Charlotte.

The Village Haberdashery

The Village Haberdashery

The Village Haberdashery

The Village Haberdashery

The second little outfit is the Oliver + S Book Report Dress in All the States in Aqua from Hatbox by Alexia Abegg for Cotton + Steel and Kona Cotton Solids by Robert Kaufman with light blue buttons. Charlotte made this darling dress too.

The Village Haberdashery

The Village Haberdashery

The Village Haberdashery

On our lady we have a Traveler Dress by Lisette sewn by Zoe Edwards, who is going to be teaching a class on this pattern in November. The dress is sewn in Slub Chambray in Indigo from Chambray Union by Robert Kaufman and it fits me, and I love wearing it. Seriously – this is a class worth taking because this is a dress worth having!

The Village Haberdashery

The Village Haberdashery

The Village Haberdashery

I made the figure 8 cowl our lady is wearing using Window Vine Lawn in Navy from Homebody by Kim Kight for Cotton + Steel and Cambridge lawn in Mango by Robert Kaufman, along with a good helping of mini pom pom trim in aqua. You can find my tutorial for this project here.

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Kelly’s Lucky quilt tutorial (an Irish Chain quilt)

Another beautiful quilt from Kelly of Jeliquilts! Kelly likes a creative challenge so for this quilt, Charlotte and I picked out a stack of fabrics to co-ordinate with the palette we chose for the garments we wanted to feature in the latest shop window display. Then I sent it off to Kelly and let her work her magic. The result is a gorgeous Irish Chain quilt that is fresh and bright and so inviting.


This quilt has been on display in the shop for a couple of weeks now and has received so many compliments! I’m thrilled to finally share Kelly’s tutorial with you.

Fabric requirements

• 10 fat quarters in two colour groups (I used five blue and five green)
• 2 m background fabric (I used Kona bleached white)
• Lap sized wadding (56” x 67”)
• 1.75 m of 108” wide or 3 m of 42” wide fabric for backing
• 0.5 m for binding or make scrappy binding from the fat quarters

Annie’s note: we’ve created a very similar bundle to the one Kelly used and you can find it in the shop here.



• Finished block size 10.5”
• Finished quilt size 52” x 67”
• Seam allowance is ¼” unless stated otherwise
• WOF = width of fabric

Cutting & preparation

Green FQs
Cut (5) 2”x WOF strips from each FQ and sub cut into (42) 2” squares per set, for a total of 210 squares.

Blue FQs
Cut (4) 2” x WOF strips from each FQ and sub cut into (36) 2” squares per set, for a total of 180 squares.

Background fabric
Cut (18) 2” x WOF strips and sub cut into (360) 2” squares.
Cut (15) 3.5” x WOF strips and sub cut into (120) 3.5” x 5” strips.

Binding fabric
For scrappy binding cut 2.5” x WOF strips from the left over FQs. You will need about 234”.

Backing fabric
For 42”-44” wide fabric – cut the 3m in half and sew together using a 3/8” seam allowance. Press the seam open. Backing needs to be 56” x 67”.

Making the mini blocks

NB: Press the seams well after each stage.

Make 2-patch blocks


Sort (24) 2” squares from each of the 10 designs and sew together with 2” background square. Chain stitching will make this process go an awful lot faster!

You will end up with (120) green 2-patch blocks and (120) blue 2-patch blocks. Press seams well.

Make 4-patch blocks


Sort the (120) green blocks into pairs and sew together to make (60) 4-patch blocks. Again, chain stitching will speed things up.

Repeat with the Blue 2-patch blocks to make (60) 4-patch blocks. Press seams well.

Make 9-patch blocks


From the remaining 2” green squares, sort six of each design.

Sew a 2” background square to either side to make 30 blocks.

Sort all the remaining squares (12 of each design for both colours) of both colours into pairs (one green, one blue). Sew these either side of a 2” background square to make a total of 60 blocks.

Sort strips to avoid too many repeats in design and sew into (30) 9-patch blocks. Chain piecing really is your best friend here ;-). Press seams well.

Assembling the Irish chain block

Refer to the assembly diagram.

Figure 4 (Medium)

The fabrics that I used were non-directional, if you are using directional prints I suggest you carefully consider your layout before sewing.

Assembling the quilt top

Refer to layout diagram.

Figure 5 (Medium)

There should be a green square in the top left corner of each block as you lay them out.

Sew rows 1 – 5 together and press seams.

Sew rows A – F together and press seams.

Press the quilt top really well and remove any loose threads from the back.

Basting & quilting

Make the quilt sandwich, basting using your preferred method. Quilt as desired. I quilted a wonky wavy design with my walking foot, using an off-white 50wt Aurifil thread (#2021). This gave a lovely texture to the quilt but didn’t detract from the quilt design.

Cut away excess wadding and backing and square the quilt up.


For scrappy binding, join the strips cut from the leftover FQs end to end until you have about 234”. Alternatively, cut (6) 2.5” x WOF strips from a single fabric and join end to end. Fold binding in half lengthwise and press well.

Attach binding by machine using a 1/4” seam and then finish by hand or machine.

Sit back and admire!




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Free tutorial: Kelly’s Kaleidoscope quilt

Our new window display was designed around the colour scheme of teal, coral and citron. So when it came time to plan the quilt, we basically handed Kelly of Jeli Quilts a stack of our favourite basics in these colours and let her dream up a quilt design that would complement them. We could not be more thrilled with the result: against a (nearly) white background, the bold design and bright colours are electric! Read on for the tutorial and make your own Kaleidoscope Quilt (and don’t forget to share a picture of us on Flickr!) Thanks, Kelly!

UPDATE: Kelly is giving away a bundle of the fabrics used in this quilt on her blog!

• 12 fat quarters (this bundle includes all of the same fabrics)
• 1.75 metres solids fabric for background (Kona Snow)
• 3 metres backing fabric
Lap sized wadding (52” x 64”)
• ½ metre of binding fabric

All seam allowances are ¼” unless stated otherwise

RST = right sides together
WOF = width of fabric
HST = Half square triangles

• Finished quilt size: 48” x 60”
• Finished block size: 6”


Cutting and prep:

1. From background fabric:

a. Cut (8) strips 7.5” x WOF.
b. Sub cut these into (40) 7.5” squares.
c. Cut the (40) 7.5” squares across the diagonal to make 80 HST to be used for section A1.


2. From each of the 12 Fat quarters cut:

a. (7) 10” x 2” strips for A2 sections
b. (7) 6.5” x 2” strips for A3 sections
c. (7) 3.75” x 2.25” strips for A4 sections


3. From the backing fabric:
Cut fabric in half and sew together to make a backing piece approx. 52” x 64”.

4. From binding fabric:
Cut (6) 2.5” x WOF

Printing template:

Print 80 copies of the template, making sure that you select actual size. (Print one and check that it measures 6.5” square). A ¼” seam allowance is included in the template.

Cut out template about 1/8” from the outside line for all 80 blocks.

Click on this image to download the template PDF

Click on this image to download the template PDF

Sort strips:

Lay out all 80 HST and sort the fabric strips, so that each block has a different sized strip from the 3 colour ways. This way you avoid too many repeats and the actual sewing of the blocks is a lot faster.

Sorting 1 (Large)

Foundation piecing the block:

**** Reduce your stitch length to around 1.5-1.8, to make tearing the paper off easier****

1. Flip the template over to the wrong side and place the background HST (section A1) with wrong side facing the paper (Figure a), making sure to cover at least ¼” around all sides of A1. Pin in place.

Figure a

Figure a

2. Take an A2 strip and place RST with the A1 fabric, overlapping the line between A1 and A2 by at least 1/4in. (Figure b)

Figure b

Figure b

3. Flip the template, so that the fabrics are underneath and sew on the line between A1 and A2. Backstitching at the start and end. (Figure c)

Figure c

Figure c

4. Fold the paper back along the line just sewn (figure d) and trim the seam allowance to1/4in. Flip fabric and press (Figure e).

Figure d

Figure d

Figure e

5. Repeat steps 1-4, adding the fabrics in numerical order (figure f).

Figure f

Figure f

6. Once complete, flip template to wrong side and trim on the dotted line to make a 7.5 inch block. (Figures g and h)

figure g (Large)

Figure g

figure h (Large)

Figure h

7. Repeat steps1-6 with the remaining 79 templates.

8. Press the blocks well with lots of starch and then carefully remove the paper by tearing gently along the sewn lines.

Quilt layout:

**** Return your stitch length to normal****

Lay out the blocks referring to the layout picture (Figure i). I laid my blocks out fairly randomly, which gives quite a psychedelic look! The stripes will look more pronounced if you stick to a colour for each row, as the diagram shows.

Figure i (Large)

Figure i

Once you have your layout finalised, stack the blocks into rows and label. You need to be careful to note which way is up, so they are not sewn upside down etc.

1. Sew blocks A-G together into rows, press seams

2. Sew rows 1-10 together, press seams

Give the quilt top a good press.


1. Make a quilt sandwich with your quilt top, wadding and backing using your preferred basting method. (I am a spray baster).

2. Quilt as desired. I quilted chevrons using #Aurifil in cream (number 2026) and my walking foot.


3. Cut off excess wadding and backing and square the quilt up.

4. Join the binding strips together, fold in half and press.

5. Machine stitch the binding to the front of the quilt and then sew to the back either by hand or machine.


Voila, you are done!!

Comments { 8 }

Snow and Ice Strip Quilt

Bark & Branch by Eloise Renouf for Cloud9 and Botanics by Carolyn Friedlander for Robert Kaufman arrived in the shop around the same time and I couldn’t help but notice how perfectly these collections worked together. As the idea for our wintry January/February shop window formed in my mind, I knew we had to include these collections in the mix! I’ve been wanting to make a strip quilt for ages and this felt like the perfect project.


One afternoon Charlotte and I started pulling fabrics out for the quilt and the pile grew. Fabrics were added, then taken away. More fabrics were added. Then, the next morning, I found a few pieces in the skinny eighth basket and added more.

Snow and ice strip quilt

Before the editing process!

Strip quilts are so much fun! The piecing is, obviously, as easy as it gets. So it’s all about choosing your fabrics and playing with them until you love the order of things. The final quilt includes Bark & Branch (Winter Wonderland is the feature fabric), plus lots of Botanics, a few Pearl Bracelets and some lovely slices of In the ForestAnnaliUrban Patch and Madrona Road.

Snow and ice strip quilt

Playing with the layout

If you want a tutorial, Ashley at Film in the Fridge has a great one. But it’s hard to get this wrong, in my opinion. That said, I did go a little bit long. The ideal length for a strip quilt is 50″ – 60″ and mine is about 72″. But I left it – it’s long enough to cover my husband from chin to toe, give or take, and I really didn’t want to take off any of my strips!


It is sensible to keep your quilt to 60″ inches, though, because that way you can fit it on a cot size wadding. I had to use two pieces. In keeping with the wintry theme, I chose Dream Puff for my wadding. It’s light and fluffy, and the good people at Quilters Dream tell me it’s 1.5 times warmer than down. It feels like a duvet! It’s warm, cosy and cuddly. I can’t wait to have it back from the display. The quilt is backed with Hand Drawn Stripes in Charcoal from Botanics and bound with Widescreen in Grey.


Are you inspired to make your own strip quilt? We have fun news for you: click over to our next post for a giveaway!


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Village Stash Society update! Designer half stack club membership now available for the Colour of the Month Club

We’re pleased to announce there is now a designer half stack option for the Village Stash Society’s Colour of the Month Club! VSS members who choose this option will receive five fat quarters of designer quilting cotton stash builders each month. The price for this option is £15 plus shipping (a total of £17.75 if you’re in the UK). Sign up by 10 February to receive next month’s green bundle!

The club has been running for four months now so we’re a third of a way through the rainbow! Here is what our designer club members have received so far:

Colour of the Month Club

Colour of the Month Club

Colour of the Month Club

Colour of the Month Club

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An Up, Up & Away plus quilt

At the last minute, after struggling to come up with any exciting gift ideas, I decided to make my parents a quilt for Christmas. I kept it simple, sticking with the same formula as my last quilt, but in a smaller throw size. Up, Up & Away by Heather Moore/Skinny LaMinx had just arrived and was calling my name, so away I went.

Up, Up & Away Plus Quilt

The whole process culminated in a couple of marathon quilting/Downton Abbey-watching sessions, with me sewing the binding on on Christmas Eve before we left to go to the airport to fly to Seattle. I’d envisaged doing my final hand-stitching on the plane but I finally realised that carrying the quilt, along with everything else, through the airport and attempting to stitch on the plane with a baby in our laps was insane. So mum and dad unwrapped an unfinished quilt, which I stitched up leisurely throughout the week. Handwork really shouldn’t be rushed, am I right?

Up, Up & Away Plus Quilt

Like last time I referenced Jeni Baker’s Arithmetic Quilt Pattern when planning this quilt, but I made adjustments because I wanted to use Essex Yarn Dyed in Olive as the background and I wanted it to fit onto a 70″ square throw size piece of Quilter’s Dream. I used Natural Request which is nice and light – the quilt is also backed and bound in linen and that adds some weight. It’s a lovely, indulgent quilt!

Up, Up & Away Plus Quilt

On the back I used up some extra squares with a row down the middle. I’m pleased to say that my quilting lines almost match these squares on the back – I tried so hard to line this up when I basted.

Up, Up & Away Plus Quilt

I didn’t do any math before laying this out so I chopped up a bit too much fabric. Now that I’m looking at it on the screen, I’ve done some of the math to save you time if you’d like to try something similar:

*You need 150 4.5″ squares for the pluses. That works out to 30 pluses or approximately 10 fat quarter metres.

*I used Up, Up & Away and we have nine prints in stock. I can see now that I’m looking at it that I didn’t divide up my pluses equally. So if you wanted to do that you’d need fat quarters of all nine fabrics, plus an extra fat quarter of your favourite three.

*You’ll also need two metres of Essex Yarn Dyed in Olive, cut into 111 4.5″ squares on the front. I ended up cutting the outer squares in half to fit the wadding. If you want to save yourself some fabric, you could cut those in half in advance and you’ll only need 1.5m (I think).

Up, Up & Away Plus Quilt

On our last morning in Seattle we took the quilt down to Gasworks Park, which is close to my parents’ house in Fremont, and took lots of pictures. I love how the quilt looks in this iconic place on such a foggy typical Seattle morning!

Up, Up & Away Plus Quilt

Up, Up & Away Plus Quilt

Comments { 12 }

Emily’s Hexagon Playmat Bag tutorial

This week we have a fabulous tutorial from Emily of Strawberry Patch Ramblings! She’s created an adorable playmat that draws up into a bag so you can carry your toys on the go or tidy away your play area instantly! Here it is in our homepage photo as a playmat:

Play Mat
And here I am modelling it as a bag! Now I’ll turn it over to Emily to tell you how she created this genius project. Thank you Emily!
I was so excited to play with the wonderful new Briar Rose collection. It has such a beautiful soft hand and combined with the sweet details in the prints I knew it would be perfect for this little baby project. A sweet playmat perfect for play dates and travelling with little ones, fill it up with toys and picnic treat as it draws up into a handy bag.
Fabric required:
6 fat quarters for patchwork top
Wadding 45” x 45” (Crib size pack most suitable)
1 ¼ meters of fabric for backing (44”wide)
½” meter of fabric for binding (44” wide)
4 Meters of strong ribbon or cord for drawstring
Assembly Directions:
Use an accurate ¼” seam allowance throughout
Cutting instructions:
Trim the longest side of the fat quarters to 22” if it is not already.

playmat 1

Cut a rectangle 12 ½” x 22” then subcut the rectangle on the diagonal. Retain leftover strip for later.

playmat 2

Repeat with the remaining five fat quarters.
Sewing the Patchwork Top:

Arrange triangles into a hexagon layout.

playmat 3

Taking two triangles at a time sew them together to create 6 segments. Press seam allowances.

playmat 4

playmat 5

Sew three segments together to give you a half hexagon.

Repeat with the remaining segments to give you the second half. Press seam allowances.

playmat 6

Join the two halves, this time pressing the seam open to reduce bulk.


Layer the patchwork front and backing fabric with the wadding to make a quilt sandwich. Pin into place or spray baste using 505 basting spray.

playmat 7

Quilt as desired. I chose to echo the six segments of the hexagon with some evenly spaced straight line quilting.

Once quilted trim the excess wadding.

playmat 8

Attaching drawstring Channels
Take 4 strips from those you retained from cutting the fat quarters earlier.  You are looking for two strips for the outside of the drawstring channels, I chose the two strawberry prints, and two for the inside of the channels, as these will not be seen I used two of the solid strips. Check that the strips are 7” x 22” (if not then trim to
size). Subcut into six 7” x 3 ½”.

playmat 9

playmat 10

Take one printed strip and one solid strip and place RST.

Sew down the two short sides, backstitching at  the beginning and end.

playmat 11

Turn the right way out and press flat, then press in half along the length.

playmat 12

Repeat until you have made 12 of these units.

playmat 13
Pin into place along the edge of the playmat on the back, two per side and position evenly, I spaced mine 3 ½” in from the edges. Machine baste into place 1/8” from the edge.

Finishing the bag

Bind using your preferred method.

playmat 14

I like to use a 2 ½” straight strip binding machine sewn down onto the back of the playmat and then hand sew down onto the front.

playmat 15

playmat 16

Thread the ribbon or cord through the channels using a bodkin or large safety pin.

playmat 18

playmat 17

playmat 19

Comments { 15 }

Free pattern: Kelly’s Stitch Floral Circle Plus Quilt

Kelly of Jeli Quilts, one of our top rainbow consultants, has created a beautiful plus quilt using our Stitch Floral Circle fabrics! I can’t tell you how cheerful this quilt is in real life. It’s a seriously happy quilt, and soon it will be gracing our new window display for all to enjoy. Read on to find out how she made it! Thanks Kelly!

A Plus Quilting

It’s no secret that I am partial to a rainbow and I jumped at the chance to create a quilt from the gorgeous Stitch floral circles bundle.


I am also partial to plus quilts, so had a little mess round in EQ7 and came up with this cute little lap quilt.





Quilt top:

[Annie’s note: there is now a kit for this quilt in the shop!]
8 Fat quarters (I used a fat quarter bundle of Stitch Floral Circle)
1 1/2 metres background fabric (Kona snow)
Thread – I used Aurifil (2310) 50wt for both piecing and quilting)
To finish quilt:
2 3/4 metres (based on fabric width of 42″)
Lap sized wadding (need approx 51″ x 60″)
1/2 metre of fabric for binding if not using leftover fat quarters to make scrappy binding*
** Seam allowances are 1/4 throughout unless stated otherwise**

Cutting instructions:


From background fabric:

Cut (35) 5″ squares
Cut (2) 5″ x 45.5″ strips ( top & bottom borders)
From Fat quarters:
Red, Orange and Mustard FQ’s – Cut (10) 5″ squares from each colour
Olive and Aqua FQ’s – Cut (6) 5″ squares from each colour
Mint and Navy FQ’s – Cut (9) 5″ squares from each colour
from Teal FQ – Cut (5) 5″ squares
* for optional scrappy binding cut 2 1/2″ strips from the left over fat quarters and sew together end to end. (you need approximately 212″)

Quilt assembly:
  quilt assembly diagram
Layout the 5″ squares following the diagram
Stack squares vertically into rows and label 1-10
Sew squares (A-J) together in order into rows, pressing seams open at the end.
Sew rows together starting (row 1 to 2 etc through to row 10) again pressing seams open.
Finally add top and bottom borders (5″ x 45.5″).


Finishing the quilt:

Cut backing fabric in half an sew together to make quilt back approx 51″ x 60″.
Baste quilt top, wadding and quilt back to make quilt sandwich (I am a spray baster and use 505 spray).
Quilt as desired – I chose a concentric circles/spiral quilt design and used my walking foot edge as a guide. There are great tutorials available here and here.


Attach binding by machine using a 1/4″ seam and then finish by hand or machine.

Finished quilt size is approx 45″ x 54.5″


Bonus project:

I used up some of the remaining spare scraps from the fat quarters to make this cute little cushion.


I cut (8) 2 1/2″ squares from each of the 8 FQ’s and sewed together with 1/4″seam to make a 16″ square (8 x 8 layout). I then added a 1 1/2″ border, basted and quilted in a crosshatch design, again using my walking foot. I finished the cushion with a covered zippered back using Fiona’s fab tute.

Thank you Kelly! If you’d like to see this gorgeous quilt in person, visit the shop! We’ll be featuring it in our next window display.


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